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One of the jobs as a manager here at
MacFarlane Pheasants is to answer questions
that our customers have regarding the
gamebird business. Whether it be incubation,
brooding or any other area of concern, we like
to help in any way we can.
As the Hatchery Manager of what is
considered one of the largest hatcheries of
pheasants in the nation, I get my share of
calls.
Recently there has been a great increase in
calls regarding small hobby incubators and
their operation. These units usually hold
anywhere from 10-30 eggs and are popular
with school classes and poultry hobbyists.
Since our smallest setter holds 21,000+ eggs,
I can’t say I am an expert in the operation of
these smaller units. Yet, in all types of
incubators, certain guidelines are universal.
The most important rules are:
Rule 1)
Read and follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations. If there are problems from
the start, then you can begin to explore the
reasons for the poor hatch with a logical
approach.
Rule 2)
Egg handling prior to setting,
temperature, turning, humidity and venting
are the five major areas of concern.
Don’t hold eggs too long or at the wrong
temperature (58° for up to 10 days) before
setting.
Have at least two thermometers that measure
up to .1 degree mark if possible and check
often. Temperatures can vary in these units
quite widely from one spot to another. A
temperature of 99-99.4° is best for pheasants.
Lower temperature if possible to 98° at 21 days.
Many small units have auto turner systems
now. Make sure the egg turns at least 90° five
times per day. Auto turners usually hold the
egg upright, so make sure the large end is up.
If turning manually, mark one side of the egg
with an ‘X” and the other with an ‘O’. Turn
the eggs an odd number of times during the
day so they don’t end up on the same side
overnight every time.
Stop turning the eggs after 21 days.
Humidity is usually provided in the form of a
small water pan or trough. Keep these full.
You do not need to spray additional H2O into
the unit unless there is no other source of
humidity. Don’t wet the eggs.
Ventilation in these units usually consists of
small holes that can be plugged or opened to
varying degrees. Try keeping the ventilation
closed the first three days, then give more
ventilation as the incubation proceeds. During
the last four days, maximum ventilation will be
needed to supply the fully developed embryos
with the air exchange they need.
Pay attention to these simple rules and most
small incubators will do a fine job of hatching
pheasant eggs.
If problems do occur, break the eggs out after
the 26th day and make observations on stage of
development and condition of the unhatched
embryo if present at all. Then if you can’t
determine the problem yourself, give me a call.
Basic Guidelines for Small Incubators
•
Ben Lawton -
4
800.345.8348 ¥
www.pheasant.com
Small Incubator
Back row, L to R: Brian Check - Breeder Manager & Assistant Hatchery Manager, Nik Winke and
Kyle Fischer. Front row, L to R: Emma Boyd, Ben Lawton - Hatchery Manager, Enrique Montes and
Juan Zamora
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